Azelaic acid in skincare – Complete guide

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring substance in our skin. It is also naturally found in wheat, barley, and rye. It is one of the most underrated ingredients in the skincare industry.

• It can treat acne vulgaris (inflammatory acne): Azelaic acid can treat acne organically killing bacteria in zits and cysts.

• Keratolytic: It means that it promotes the turnover of skin cells, and helps in unclogging pores, so it’s useful for acne.

• It helps with hyperpigmentation and melasma: azelaic acid can decrease pigment production and it is a great choice to treat melasma and pigmentation in pregnancy. It can also reduce pigmentation that is caused by sun damage.

• It can be used for hair growth: azelaic acid is good for hair loss on the head but can cause thinning of the beard.

• Anti-inflammatory: azelaic acid can calm angry skin and red and inflamed skin. It is also non-irritating.

• Other benefits: It can reduce freckles, and erythema and treat hormonal acne and pregnancy-related acne.

• It is tough to formulate azelaic acid because of its insolubility in water and oil.

• Azelaic acid is banned from many countries and doesn’t allow it to be sold as a cosmetic.

• It has rare cases of stinging, dryness, itching, and hypopigmentation. it has to be used with caution for sensitive skin and skin of color.

• It is not best for blackheads.

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate or Azeclair: azeclair is a derivative of azelaic acid.

Azelaic acid is suitable for oily, acne-prone skin, and sensitive skin (rosacea). It is also used for the treatment of acne, melasma, and hyperpigmentation in pregnant women.

Azelaic acid is gentle and non-irritating but can lead to irritation in super-sensitive skin and skin of color. Make sure to conduct a patch test.

Azeclair or Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is more suitable for super-sensitive skin and skin of color.

When looking for azelaic acid products, make sure to look at other ingredients too like niacinamide and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate. This can reduce irritation.

• Retinol and retinoids
• Vitamin C
• AHA/BHA/PHA’s
• Benzoyl Peroxide
• Hyaluronic acid
• Peptides
• Tranexamic acid
• Ceramides
• Arbutin
• Vitamin E
• Ferulic acid
• Kojic acid (can be irritating)
• Hydroquinone (very powerful and irritating, use with caution and make sure to consult a dermatologist)

• Make sure to conduct a patch test.

• For normal skin, you can go from Vitamin A (retinol), B (niacinamide), and C (ascorbic acid). For sensitive skin and skin of colour, you can from Vitamin B, A, and then C.

• Chemical exfoliants should be used at night and only 1-2 times a week.

• Sunscreen is the last step in skincare.

• Azelaic acid can be used in the morning and night.

• The skincare routine down below is how you can mix multiple actives with your hydroxy acids by avoiding irritation. I would not recommend starting multiple actives at the same time. Start with one active and then add another active after a few weeks

• Make sure to start with one-half of the recommended amount. Use 1/3 of the application area, and apply every second night. If tolerated, increase to apply to the directed area. Once tolerated increase application by an extra night a week. This applies to all actives and prescription skincare.

• Use a gentle cleanser
• Toner is optional
• You can apply your skincare actives: azelaic acid and combine them with niacinamide or Vitamin C.
• Moisturize and then apply sunscreen

1. Use a cleanser
2. Toner (optional).
3. Use AHA/BHA/PHAs
4. Wait for 30 mins and then apply your skincare actives such as niacinamide or azelaic acid and combine them with Vitamin C, or retinol.
5. Moisturize.

Note: you can combine azelaic acid with any of these skincare actives since its safe and non-irritating.

• Tip 1: If you’re sensitive to azelaic acid, you can use azeclair or Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate and combine them with other actives such as vitamin C and retinol or their derivatives.
• Tip 2: Since you’re using AHA/BHA/PHAs 1-2 times a week, you can modify your skincare actives such as Vitamin C or Retinol. For example:
  • Alternate nights: on 1st night you can use your AHA/BHA/PHAs with retinol along with azelaic acid. On the 2nd night, you can use your AHA/BHA/PHAs with Vitamin C along with azelaic acid.

This skincare routine is mainly an example and how basic skincare is and how you can combine all your actives with your hydroxy acids by avoiding irritation. There are many ways you can modify your skincare. Always listen to your skin and do what’s best for you.

Always consult a dermatologist about how you plan to use these skincare actives.

Yes, azelaic acid is safe for pregnancy and breastfeeding, but make to still consult a dermatologist about concentrations you should be using. It can also treat hyperpigmentation and melasma in pregnant women.

Azelaic acid is good for oily and acne-prone skin, but milia are not like acne. Unlike, whiteheads, blackheads, and cysts, milia can not be popped. They can only be treated with manual extractions with a needle. If milia is associated with closed comedones, a lancing tool can draw the keratin under the skin.

Regular exfoliation can prevent milia.

Yes, azelaic acid can be used for seborrheic dermatitis and is completely safe.

Yes, azelaic acid can treat acne and also closed comedones. It can treat acne by killing the bacteria in zits and cysts. It can promote cell turnover and helps in unclogging pores in acne.

Yes, azelaic acid can be used with tretinoin. Make sure to use azelaic acid in the morning and tretinoin in the night as it is a non-photostable retinoid or you can use it together at night.

If it is drying and peeling the skin around the corners of the lips, apply Vaseline around the mouth before application or stop for a few nights if it’s really bad.

Yes, azelaic acid can cause purging as it increases cell turnover.

Azelaic acid can exfoliate the skin, but not as much as the other AHAs and BHAs like glycolic acid and salicylic acid.

It is because Azelaic acid is not soluble in water and is a difficult ingredient to deal with. We mainly see them in glycol which is readily soluble and also provides humectant to the merchandise.

Yes, you can use azelaic acid with rosehip. You can apply azelaic acid first, moisturize and then apply rosehip oil. This combination can be used for all skin types.

Yes, it is safe to use azelaic acid with epidou as long as you’re using them both at separate times of the day. Using them both at the same time can cause redness, irritation, and dryness on the skin. It is best to use azelaic acid in the morning and epidou at night. Don’t forget to use sunscreen and moisturizer.

Yes, azelaic acid can be used to treat perioral dermatitis because of its anti-inflammatory and keratolytic properties. It can be used in high concentrations of 15% to 20% which you can only get through medical prescriptions.

Yes, it is safe to use azelaic acid with differin as long as you’re using them both at separate times of the day. Azelaic acid is a skincare active that can cause purging and using it with differin at the same time can cause excessive irritation, drying, redness, or scaling of the skin. You can use azelaic acid in the morning and adapalene at night followed by a moisturizer.

It is perfectly safe to use azelaic acid with soolantra as long as you’re using them both at separate times of the day. Azelaic acid and soolantra are perfectly safe to use for people with sensitive skin and can avoid many complications. You can use azelaic acid in the morning and soolantra at night followed by a moisturizer.